Sisterlocks™ Techniques, Processes and Stages

Jun 27, 2011
Elsie Ofori

Sisterlocks are much thinner but can be colored as with dreadlocks - Urban Hippie Love

Sisterlocks™ have revolutionized the way people of African descent lock their hair. How is it done? What does it entail? What are the stages and techniques?

Sisterlocks™ is the hair locking procedure which uses a weaving technique to install and maintain hair. They are extremely thin sections of intertwined strands of matted hair, which can grow to any length that the wearer desires. Dr. JoAnne Cornwell is credited with beginning the Sisterlocks movement in 1993. The system has spread worldwide and there is a positive buzz around women who are involved in any way with the Sisterlocks movement.

How is it Done?

A qualified lock technician will assess your hair and give you an estimate of the time it will take and the cost. 17-20 hours is the average time it takes to install the micro locks, all depending on the length and thickness of your hair. Sisterlocks still cost hundreds of dollars to install because it takes so long and is still very specialized. Men are also wearing this hairstyle and their version is called "Brotherlocks™."

To begin the process, there should be at least one and a half inches of new natural re-growth. If your hair was previously relaxed or permed you can still install Sisterlocks, as long as there is enough natural re-growth. Once the hair is cleaned and conditioned, it will be parted into four sections and held in bunches. Sisterlocks have created a special tool, that looks a bit like a little crochet needle to form the tiny locks. Taking a few strands, the hair is woven through at the base of the the tiny hair section. The tool helps to pull the strands of hair through. It has to be woven in all directions going vertically up, or (North), horizontally (East), (West) and down (South). Sisterlocks have their own particular technique. It looks like a tiny plait at first. This is done all over the head. Most heads will be covered in about 300-500 locks. The partings are neat squares forming a grid covering the entire head.

The Four Stages of Sisterlocks

The first stage is "the pre-locking phase" the locks look slightly coiled and curly, a bit like ringlets. People in the trade call the locks baby locks.

The second stage is called "the budding phase." This is when the hair is beginning to mat and a small bud can be seen forming. Teen locks is the name given to the locks at this stage, due to the hair's rebellious action against the initial tightly woven formation.

The third stage is the "shooting phase," or adult locks stage. More of the lock is matted and the strands of hair are more interlocked.

The final stage is the "contracting phase". These are elder locks, the appearance is much like traditional dreadlocks but much finer. The matting process is at it's most solidified. Depending on your hair type it should take approximately two years to reach this stage.

Tightening and Maintenance

It is always best to visit a qualified Sisterlocks consultant, to keep the hair neat and tightened. Locks may need to be re-tightened every four to six weeks. Close to the scalp there may be slightly loose regrowth so to tighten it, the hair is re-woven using the Sisterlock tool™. The tool pulls each lock through the regrowth near the scalp, upwards, downwards, then horizontally across, east and west.

People are increasingly trying to do the tightening themselves sometimes using other tools such as the "latch hook tool" or the "nappy loc tool." The latch hook tool has a grip handle and a hook with a flap at the end. The flap closes when the hair is pulled through. The nappy loc tool looks like a sewing needle with a large eye in which the hair is inserted. The hair is held in the upper part of the eye as it is very narrow. There are courses available to learn the technique.

Sisterlocks Glamour

This hairstyle has empowered African women of the diaspora, to confidently wear their hair completely naturally and create glamorous styles, that can fit into any walk of life. The difference between this style and traditional dreadlocks is that the hair doesn't unravel when it gets wet. It also has less of the religious connotations of traditional dreadlocks. The thin stucture enables the wearer to cut, curl, color and style it in number of different ways.